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REC.CRAFTS.JEWELRY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Last Updated: July 23, 1995
* denotes that question is being worked upon.
# denotes a content change.
1) Rec.crafts.jewelry
1.1) What is rec.crafts.jewelry?
#1.2) Who upkeeps this FAQ?
1.3) Is it okay for me to advertise my Rolex/Ring/Estate
Jewelry for sale in rec.crafts.jewelry?
1.4) Is it okay for me to advertise my
gemstones/metal/casting services in rec.crafts.jewelry?
2) Lapidary, minerology, and gemology
2.1) What is the difference between minerology and gemology?
2.2) Natural, Synthetic, Simulant, or Man-made?
2.3) Treated stones... What stones are commonly treated and
how?
2.4) What are the organic gems?
*2.5) What are some little-known or undervalued gems?
2.6) What are doublets and triplets?
2.7) Are diamonds forever?
2.8) What are some common man-mades?
#2.9) What are some substitutes for ivory?
2.10) About Jade?
#2.11) How do I polish Jade?
3) Metalsmthing
3.1) What are the precious metals?
3.2) Is it possible to repair silver jewelry with the
stones in place?
3.3) What is the difference between soft solder and hard
solder?
3.4) What are the various grades of hard solder?
3.5) I can't get my silver soldering to work. Can I use
soft solder instead?
3.6) Do I need Easy-Flo solder?
3.7) Why isn't my silver solder not working?
3.8) My pickle covered my work with copper. What happened?
3.9) What alloys of gold produce which colors?
7) Wood
7.1) Is wood appropriate for jewelry?
8) Plastic
9) Textiles
200) Designing and Making Jewelry
500) Miscellaneous
500.1) How do I find a reputable jeweler?
*500.2) Common high-pressure sales tactics
500.3) Where can I find inexpensive jewelry?
1000) Recommended reading
1000.1) Other FAQs.
1000.2) Books.
1000.3) World Wide Web sites
2000) Addresses and Contacts
2000.1) Submitting an advertising
2000.2) Template
#2000.3) Suppliers
9999) Contributers...
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1) Rec.crafts.jewelry
1.1) What is rec.crafts.jewelry?
Rec.crafts.jewelry is a newsgroup devoted to the craft of
making Jewelry. This makes the field of discussion wide
open. Both real and costume jewelry are discussed and the
many of the topics discussed include gemology,
silversmithing, gem cutting, and design.
1.2) Who upkeeps this FAQ?
Currently, David Falk (falk@netcom.com) upkeeps this
FAQ. Any comments, corrections, or suggestions should be
directed to him. In short, I'm not a GIA graduate, but
a silversmith and knifemaker. I don't vouch for the
accuracy of any of the information contained within.
Any and all copyrights belong to their specific authors.
1.3) Is it okay for me to advertise my Rolex/Ring/Estate
Jewelry for sale in rec.crafts.jewelry?
No.
Q&A Contributed by neilm@halcyon.com (Neil R. Marsh)
1.4) Is it okay for me to advertise my
gemstones/metal/casting services in rec.crafts.jewelry?
No. Mentioning in a *short* .sig that you sell gemstones,
metal, or services is generally acceptable. Posts that have
no purpose other than advertising annoy many of the readers.
Q&A Contributed by emilyb@netcom.com (Emily Breed)
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2) Lapidary, minerology, and gemology
2.1) What is the difference between minerology and gemology?
Minerology is the study of all naturally forming minerals.
Gemology is the study of materials that may be cut and used
in jewelry. Lapidary is the art of cutting and polishing
precious materials.
2.2) Natural, Synthetic, Simulant, or man-made?
These terms have been designed by the Gemological Institute
of America for the classification of precious stones.
These terms are specific to the GIA and may not necessarily
be used in any other field.
Synthetic: A man-made mineral that has the same chemical
and optical properties as the natural mineral.
Simulant: A material that is meant to act as a gem
replacement, not necessarily man-made nor has the same
chemistry or optical properties. An example is Cubic
Zirconia used in place of Diamond.
Man-made: A material that is human manufactured, but is not
a replacement for another stone.
2.3) Treated stones... What stones are commonly treated and
how?
Altering the characteristics of a stone is nothing new.
Man has been treating stones for thousands of years to
enhance or change the properties. This has often been done
to increase the market price of inferior stones. Below is
a list of commonly treated stones and how they are treated.
Amethyst: Heat Treated for color
Low value amythests are often heat-treated and sold as
Citrines.
Aquamarine: Heat Treated for color
Green or Brown aquamarines can be heat treated to produce
a dark-blue color.
Chalcedony: Often dyed.
Brightly colored onyx's are almost always dyed. True onyx
is black with white (or tan) bands. Pure black onyx has
been dyed.
Agate, a form of Chalcedony, takes to dying very well.
There are many methods for treating Agate.
Dying Chalcedony first involves boiling the stone in a
strong bicarbonate solution, then soaking the stone in a
chemical solution.
Red: iron nitrate solution
Green: chromic acid or nickel nitrate
Brown: sugar solution followed by heat.
Blue: red or yellow prussiate of potassium followed by
soaking in iron sulphate solution
Black: sugar solution followed by supluric acid.
Diamond: Painted for color.
Often painted with an off-color dye to offset a yellow
tinge.
Paint quickly wears off.
Diamond: Treated for clarity.
Inluded stones can be treated for inclusion by using a
resin under pressure. The resin fills the inclusions and
causes the diamond to appear clearer. Diamonds that have
undergone this treatment are called Yehuda Diamonds.
This treatment is heat sensitive.
Emerald: Treated for clarity.
Emeralds are full of inclusions. Hairline cracks often
fill with air to reduce the overall clarity of the stone.
Emeralds are treated with Grape Seed, cedarwood, or
palm oil.
The Emeralds are soaked in the oil, then heated to force
the air out of the inclusions. While maintaining the heat,
pressure is added to force the oil into the inclusions.
An inherent problem with this form of treatment is that
the oil is volatile. A treated Emerald will become
progressively clouded in as little as year as the
inclusions fill with air.
Jade: Often dyed.
White Jade can be dyed a mauve or green color.
Opal: Painted for color.
A black paint is sometimes applied to the back of an opal
to bring out more brilliant colors.
Sapphire: Heat Treated for color.
Sapphires that have been cut into cabochons often display
star patterns. Unfortunately, most of the Saphirres that
come out of the ground are rather pale.
To touch them up, these stone are, almost as an industry
practice, heat treated with Titanium and Iron oxide. The
iron is absorbed into the outer layer of the Sapphire. A
quality heat treatment will give the Sapphire a deep outer
layer.
Several problems exist with this form of treatment, if the
stone is reheated, the process might reverse itself. Also
if the stone is repolished or re-cut, the color will fade
or be lost altogether.
Pearl: Irradiated for color.
White and green tinged pearls can be irradiated with
Gamma to produce grey to blue grey colors.
Tanzanite: Heat Treated for color.
Tanzanite is borderline collector gem that displays a
variety of colors (pink, brown, yellow, blue, and green),
but is most valued for the violet-blue hues. Heat
treatment changes Tanzanite into the desired violet-blue.
Topaz: Irradiated for color.
Topaz can be colored using high-energy gamma rays. The
more intense the bombardment, the deeper the color. Just
about any Topaz can now be made blue by this method.
Tourmaline: Irradiated for color.
Bombardmant with Gamma rays can manifest the following
color changes.
colorless -> dark pink
blue -> purple
pink -> yellow
yellow -> peach
Turquoise: Waxed for color.
The color of Turquoise can be enhanced by soaking it in
wax or a liquid plastic.
Zircon: Heat treated for color.
A poorly colored Zircon can be made colorless or blue
with the use of heat treating.
2.4) What are the organic gems?
Organic gems are not minerals. They are the products of
living things that are used in jewelry or human adornment.
Coral - Many colors and varieties are used.
Shell - Generally this applies to the use of mollusc shells.
This can include such thinks a mother-of-pearl,
cameos (taken from Conch or Helmet shells), and
cowries.
Pearl - Formed from an irritation in oysters. Comes in
shapes and sizes.
Ivory - This is the marrow of animal teeth. Large amounts
of Ivory can be found in the tusks of Elephants,
Walerus, and Warthogs. Though trade Elephant ivory
is illegal in most countries, fossilized ivory is
legal and a fine substitute. When using legal
ivory, remember to keep your receipts else face the
possiblity of legal proceedings. Do note that this
may be a good practice with Shell and Coral as well
because of some places where local laws apply.
Amber - Amber is the fozzilized sap of ancient pine trees.
It is both mined and gathered as it it washed upon
the seashore. It is soft 2-2.5 on the Mohs scale.
Amber is highly valued among collectors, because
of its variety (amber with worms, amber with
misquitoes, etc.)
Jet - Crystalline form of coal. It's black, relatively
soft 2.4-4, and takes a high polish.
*2.5) What are some little-known or undervalued gems?
2.6) What are doublets and triplets?
These are composite stones made up of layers of material.
A doublet is two layers; a triplet is three layers.
The reasons for using triplets varys. But often, the use
of a composite stone is to save on the cost of a stone or
to protect a soft material from wear.
Opal is often found as a triplet. In opal triplets, the
surface layer is glass, the second layer, is opal, and the
bottom layer is a dark material such as black onyx or black
paint. The top layer is to protect the opal and make it
seem larger, whereas the bottom layer is to alter the color.
When seen from above, an opal triplet looks like a piece of
opal to the casual observer.
Another kind of doublet uses a cap of gem material that has
been hollowed out and backed by colored glass.
Soude emeralds are a double made of two layers of colorless
quartz or spinel that has been fastened together with a
green colored epoxy.
Viewing the triplet from the side will often reveal the
layers.
2.7) Are diamonds forever?
No. Diamonds are an unstable crystalline form of carbon.
The actual perminance of diamond is somewhat of debate,
more so in the gemological community than the chemistry
world.
Maintainer Note: I would be interested in hearing from
physical chemists on this subject. I heard about this at
a lecture taught at the University of British Columbia
chemistry department. If anyone has a hard reference,
please let me know.
Also, even though diamonds are hard, they are also brittle.
The consensus seems to be that they can crack and chip.
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The following quotes (from "Crystalline Solids" McKie &
McKie, Nelson & Sons Ltd, London. 1974 ISBN 0 17 761001 8)
are I think relevant...
"Diamond, although it is familiar both as a gemstone and as
an abrasive, is not the thermodynamically stable form of
carbon at room temperature and pressure; the stable
structure for the element carbon under these conditions is
graphite." (p.303)
This is followed by discussion on the relative strengths of
covalent (strong) and van der Waals (much weaker) bonds. In
diamond all the bonds are covalent, which makes the diamond
lattice difficult to break.
"It is well known that the interconversion of graphite and
diamond is experimentally difficult. The graphitization of
diamond can only be achieved, in the absence of a
catalyst, at vey high pressures and temperatures, eg 33 kb
and 1200 C, 61 kb and 1700 C." (p.477f)
Q&A Contributed by rick@chocky.demon.co.uk (Rick Hewett)
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2.8) What are some common man-mades?
This section is primarly concerned with a variety of
man-made stones/simulants that are marketed as gems.
Austrian Crystal - Glass made to look like quartz
Cubic Zirconium Oxide - Cubic Zirconium is a simulant for
diamond. CZ has a greater fire than diamond and is almost
as hard, 8.5 on the mohs scale.
Goldstone - Glass with gold or copper dust
Victoria Stone - Malachite, turquoise, quartz, and other
green-blue stones melted together. Raw Victoria Stone has
become scare because of manufacturer bankruptcy.
2.9) What are some substitutes for ivory?
Ivory is the dentin from large mammals. Several species of
animmals have nearly been hunted to extinctly for this
valued commodity. At the moment in most western countries
it is illegal to own or use raw ivory.
Most important rule, KEEP ALL YOUR RECEIPTS. If you go to
a showing with Ivory products (or products that look like
Ivory), keep your receipts in your pocket. If your
products are seized, nobody is going to check if it is
really fossilized ivory.
Bone: Difficult to carve, inconvenient to prepare, and
usually too porous to be scrimshawed. However, bone can
be made to look like ivory if one is patient.
Fossilized Ivory: This is actually Ivory on it's way to
becoming fossilized. This is often Mammoth, Mastadon, or
walrus ivory. Fossilized ivory is nice to work with, but
it can often be off color. Also, it is harder to carve
than fresh ivory. And it is becoming scarce, because of
the demand from knife-makers.
Horn: Is the same material that finger-nails and hair is
made from. Horn can be scrimshawed, but it is notoriously
difficult to glue.
Micarta: This is a synthetic material made by the
pressurized treatment of resin and a material such as
paper or linen. Comes in a variety of colors and can
be scrimshawed. White micarta yellows with age; however,
it does not produce a warm ivory yellow as much as a
decaying plastic yellow.
Pink Ivory: The is the dense heartwood of the a species
of ebony tree. It can be used as an Ivory substitute.
But, it is pink in color, and astronomically expensive.
Much more expensive than any other substitute.
Plaster of Paris: Can be carved to look like Ivory. Yet,
it is hard to carve, not is as durable as ivory, falls
apart in water, and it cannot be scrimshawed. The only
thing it really has going for it is that it is
inexpensive. Better substitutes are readily available.
Tagua Nut: This nut is also called vegtable ivory.
Apparently, it works a lot like ivory. However, the nuts
are relatively small in size.
Walrus Ivory: Once it was used as an ivory substitute.
But now, this species is as endangered as the Elephant.
Warthog Tusk: This is the tusk of a pig.
2.10) About Jade?
Jade is a stand-alone term. If you are talking about Jade
and not some fake or look-alike, you must always use the
term Jade without quotes and without any sort of adjective
in front of it. For example, beware of anything that goes
by Real Jade. For all you know, you could be getting a
green rock.
Jade refers to one of two minerals. Both nephrite and
jadeite are Jade. Anything else isn't Jade. Nephrite is a
fairly common mineral that can be found world-wide.
Jadeite is usually much more expensive and more localized
in distribution. Most of the jadeite comes from Burma,
though there are also deposits in Southern California as
well.
Imperial Jade is jadeite. Unless somebody sticks another
adjective in there. For example, Chinese Imperial Jade or
Imperial Chinese Jade could be a green rock.
To recap the adjective delemma and Jade...
Jade = jadeite or nephrite
Nephrite = nephrite
Jadeite = jadeite
Imperial Jade = jadeite
Imperial Canadian Jade = green rock
Canadian Imperial Jade = green rock
Korea Jade = bowenite
Amazon Jade = microcline feldspar
Jasper Jade = jasper
Australian Jade = chrysoprase
The above list is by no means complete, but you get the
point. If you aren't getting Jade, you could be getting a
simulant. Common jade simulants include serpentine, jasper,
feldspar, bowenite, malachite, adventurine, and even
glossular garnet. Also, be wary of dyed calcite and marble.
Also, white jadeite can be dyed a mauve or green color.
2.11) How do I polish Jade?
Jade is the exception to the polishing rule. In order to
get the high shine polish, Jade is usually buffed at high
speed and allowed to become "hot" from the friction. This
is unlike most stone which require a light buff while
trying to keep the stone as cool as possible.
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3) Metalsmthing
3.1) What are the precious metals?
Precious metals are those that are used in Jewelry. Much
of the value and use of these metals is subject to market,
fashion, and availablity.
Aluminum: Aluminun is seldom found in nature as a metal.
It's more common natural form is as the ore bauxite. Once,
it was considered to be more valuable than gold. With the
advent of electrochemical extraction techniques, aluminum
is no longer considered a precious metal, and is in fact
less expensive than copper.
Copper: The use of copper in jewelry is more dictated by
fashion than by any other single factor. However, even
during times when copper jewelry is not in fashsion, one can
usually find jewelry made of copper alloys such as Bronze
and Brass.
Silver: Usually sold as Sterling or Coin grade silver
alloys. Pure silver is too soft for use in Jewelry.
Small amounts of copper are usually added to improve the
metal's strength. Though more precious than copper,
silver is still affordable and is a good entry level
metal for the beginning jeweler.
Gold: A soft yellow metal. Significantly more expensive
than Silver, it is also available in serveral grades and
alloys. When mixed with silver, the alloy is called
Electrum. The color of gold varies with the alloy metals.
Gold has a higher tensile strength than silver.
Platinum: A dense white metal. Most often used in plating,
it can be found in Jewelry. Very expensive and rarer than
Gold. Takes a high finish and has a higher tensile
strength than Gold.
Niobium: A rare metal with growing prominance. Forms a
silver-white finish and is good for use in electroplating.
3.2) Is it possible to repair silver jewelry with the
stones in place?
Not recommended. Many silversmiths have tried to
repair jewelry with the stones in place and have experienced
the stones cracking or changing color. Unfortunately,
silver conducts heat very well. If you must repair silver
jewelry, always remove the stones first. If your stones are
set in epoxy, gently heat the back of the setting with an
alcohal lamp or pencil torch. A temperature of 200 degrees
Celcius will cause the epoxy to degrade and release. Clean
the residual epoxy out of the setting and then begin your
repairs. If your stones are in a bezel, you might have to
drill a hole through the back while being careful of the
stone, then push the stone out. As a silversmith, you have
the choice of either removing the stones yourself, or having
them fall out, possibly in peices.
3.3) What is the difference between soft solder and hard
solder?
Soft solder usually contains high ammounts of soft metals
like tin and lead. The purpose of soft solder is to
bridge a gap. Hard solder connects two peices of metal
by expanding into the pores opened by high temperatures.
Hard solders are made of a high temperature metal (such as
silver) with a small amount of tin to lower the melting
temperature. As long at a hard solder joint is protected
with borax or yellow ochre, the melting point of the joint
metal will rise with each successive heating. Unlike hard
solder, soft soldered joints become brittle with
successive heatings. Also a soft soldered joint cannot
be filed flush, because the strength of a soft soldered
joint comes from the "encasing" of the joint ends by the
solder. Generally, hard solder forms a stronger joint
than soft solder.
3.4) What are the various grades of hard solder, their
melting temperatures, and their precious metal
contents?
Most of the hard silver solders are a mixture of silver
with copper and zinc. The temperatures are in degrees
Celcius.
SILVER SOLDER
SOLDER MELTING TEMP PERCENTAGE SILVER
Hard 773 76%
Medium 747 70%
Easy 711 60%
Easy-Flo 681 50%
Regarding Hard Gold Solders, a gold solder is usually an
alloy which is a karat or more below the alloy it is
actually used upon. For example, "12 karat yellow
solder" may actually contain only be 10 karat gold, but
it is meant for use with 12 karat gold. As a matter of
fact, one does not need to use special solders with gold
as a gold of a lower allow content may be used as solder.
For example, ordinary 9 karat gold can be used to solder
12 karat, and 14 karat gold can be used to solder 18
karat gold. However, keep in mind that unlike silver
solder, gold solder comes in a variety of colors and
you should choose the right color solder with proper
color of gold.
3.5) I can't get my silver soldering to work. Can I use
soft solder instead?
Don't use soft solders. Some jewelers do use soft solder.
A few have even been bold enough to admit it. There are
several very good reasons not to use soft solder. One,
future jewelers will hate your guts. If a repair ever
needs to be done, that future jeweler will get a very
unpleasant surprize as he heats up the peice for hard
soldering and have the whole peice fall apart because you
took the easy way out! Two, you decrease the precious
metal percentage by adding significant ammounts of soft,
valueless metals. Three, most soft solders contain LEAD.
Lead pits precious metals. Lead is toxic. Finally, the
tin in soft solder destroys pickling solutions.
DON'T USE SOFT SOLDERS!
3.6) Do I need Easy-Flo solder?
No. Easy-Flo solder was designed to be a lower melting
alternative to Easy solder, and is often used in
beginner jewelry making classes. Easy-Flo contains
cadmium which is readily disolved by pickling solutions,
and when used with hot pickling solutions the cadmium can
vaporize and be inhaled. Cadmium has a cumulative toxic
effect, and has killed a number of jewelers.
Maintainer Comment: I use only hard and medium solders and
find them sufficient for all my needs. I like to discourage
the use of Easy-Flo because it discourages proper soldering
technique. Soldering is the most fundamental skill in
silversmithing and proper technique should be taught from
the beginning.
3.7) Why isn't my silver solder not working?
Silver soldering is not an easy skill. It takes
considerable patience and time to master. There are many
reasons why a soldered joint cannot take. Below I present
a small checklist (pathology) of reasons why a soldered
joint didn't work.
A) Was the joint tight?
Silver solder will not bridge across gaps like soft
solder. The joint must be tight and flush. If you hold
the joint up to the light and see light through it, it
isn't tight enough. This is perhaps the hardest part
of silver soldering.
B) Is the joint clean?
Grease, pickle, dust, charcoal, graphite, fire scale, and
ochre will prevent solder from flowing into a joint. Clean
your joints well. Fine sand paper will often do the trick
followed by a rinse in water. Be careful with fingerprints.
C) Did you use flux?
Copper in alloys readily oxidizes forming firescale which
impedes solder flow. Using flux slows the firescale
formation. Before you solder a joint, cover the whole piece
with flux. Flux also makes firescale easier to remove in
the pickling solution. You can also be generous with the
flux since excess flux will simply burn off.
D) Did you heat it fast enough?
Heating must be done fast. If it isn't done quickly, the
flux will burn off and firescale will form. Buy the
hottest torch you can afford.
Maintainer comment: This was the greatest problem impeding
my soldering. The small butane torch I used could not
heat fast enough. When I switched to a blow torch that
used MAP gas, the problem went away.
E) Did you clean the solder before cutting it?
Tarnish collects on silver solder, and if bad enough can
impede flow.
F) When you placed the solder on the joint, did it
touch both sides of the joints?
Solder does not flow according to gravity. It flows by
capilliary action and in the direction of the heat. If
the solder is not touching both parts of the joint,
when it liquifies, it will bead instead of flowing into
the joint.
G) Did you aim the torch on the solder itself?
This is a big faux pas. Often though, a beginner (and
even some experienced) smiths will become frustrated that
the solder is not liquifying when the rest of the metal
is red, and aim the torch right onto the solder. This,
however, will burn out the lower temperature metals.
The net result is that the soldier will have a higher
melting point than the surrounding alloy, and you'll
melt your base metals. Always remenber, heat the
joint NOT the solder.
H) Did you pickle between solderings?
Important. Pickle removes firescale, flux, ochre, and
other gunk. Pickle can be used hot or cold, but you
must use it. And wash the pickle off, when finished.
3.8) What solders are appropriate for which metals?
Gold --> gold solder or a lower karat of gold
Silver --> silver solders
Nickel Silver --> silver solders
Brass --> silver or brass solder
Steel --> solder doesn't take well to steel
Copper --> silver solders
Platinum --> platinum solder
Aluminun --> lead-free aluminun solder
Niobium --> solder doesn't take well to Niobium
Titanium --> solder doesn't take well to Titanium
3.8) My pickle covered my work with copper. What happened?
Pickle works by the action of removing copper ions from
a piece into the solution. If there are ions that are more
readily taken into the solution, the picle will deposit its
excess copper ions onto your jewelry. Metallic contaminants
include iron, tin, and zinc. To prevent pickle
contamination, used wood, copper, or brass to remove items
from the pickle, and refrain from using soft solder.
3.9) What alloys of gold produce which colors?
Gold alloys come in a variety of colors. Pure gold and
alloys with a balance of metals are typically yellow.
Other gold alloys include,
Blue Gold --> alloy of Iron
Electrum --> alloy of Silver
Green Gold --> alloy of Cadmium and Silver
Purple Gold --> alloy of Aluminum or Zinc
Red Gold --> alloy of Copper
White Gold --> alloy of Nickel or Palladium
============================================================
7) Wood
7.1) Is wood appropriate for jewelry?
Exotic tropical woods can make fine jewelry. Woods that
are appropriate for jewelry include: cocobolo, ebony,
paduak, zebrawood, walnut, cherry, bubinga, tulipwood and
rosewood. Wood is very economical as well, as for most
projects, scraps are all that are required.
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8) Plastic
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9) Textiles
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200) Designing and Making Jewelry
============================================================
500) Miscellaneous
500.1) How do I find a reputable jeweler?
Ask around. Find family owned shops that have been around
for years. There are some stores that are members of the
American Gem Society (AGS). The jewelers at these stores are
required by AGS to be tested annually and must uphold
certain standards. Most still grade their stones on the GIA
scales (AGS does have their own) and adhere strictly to
them. It will usually appear as though these stores are
charging more for their stones (over mall stores for
example), however you are truly getting what you pay for.
Q&A Extracted from
Frequently Asked Questions about Diamonds, Version 1.2
Maintained by Jim Kokernak (kokerj@rpi.edu), (c) 1994.
*500.2) Common high-pressure sales tactics?
500.3) Where can I find inexpensive jewelry?
Obviously, where you look is going to depend on what you're
looking for. But, the first thing I'd say is avoid downtown
jewelry stores and the stores you find in malls. These are
often much higher Triple Keystone. In case you don't know,
Triple Keystone is the (insider) industry term for a 200%
markup and is usually the minimal markup made on retail
jewelry. If you are buying from a retail store, this is
probably the minimum you should expect to pay.
If you come across a place that seems too high in price, ask
the question "How much higher is this than Triple Keystone?"
BTW, if a price seems fair, don't ask this question, because
it really pisses off jewelers. However, it does give you a
lot of insight as to where jewelers are coming from. I've
asked this a few times, being the curious sort with no
concern for my personal safety. :*) And, they usually
react in one of two ways. One, they get very red and steam
billows out of their ears, and they say "I don't know what
you're talking about", because at this point they know that
you know. Two, the counter catalogs come out onto the
counter, and he proceeds to show you how low his prices are
in comparison to the catalog. In that latter case, it is
probable that they are selling for less than Triple
Keystone.
Now, there are a few places where you can pay less than
Triple Keystone, but these places have less service or are
away from direct retail. One place you might consider is
large shopping clubs like Price/Costco. Places like these
sell jewelry for less than Triple Keystone, and some will
only have a margin that is as low as 30% above their costs.
Also, try the Rock and Mineral shops in your local suburbs.
These shops directly cater to hobby jewelry makers, mineral
collectors, and stone cutters, but they can be the next best
place to wholesale. Many sell jewelery to tourists who
happen to drop by. If you love silver jewelry, this is a
fantastic place to look.
And finally don't forget about the cottage industries. This
is often where the best deals in jeweler happen to be.
These are private crafts people who do a variety of different
jewelry crafts. Some of these people do nothing but a single
craft, while others do everything short of starting up retail
front. Ask your local Rock and Mineral shop or Jewelry
supply shop for a couple names. While some of these people
are just learning their craft, others have been in it a very
long time. Ask to see samples of their work. Many will have
photos for you to look at. But, needless to say, their low
prices are reflective of their low overhead which means don't
expect glossy brochures and be prepared to actually go to
their house to see their work. But if you're looking to save
lots of money, this is the way to go.
And as usually, all the addages of being a good consumer
apply. Shop around. Know what you're buying. Ask lots of
questions. And, I think you'll be surprized how much money
you can save.
============================================================
1000) Recommended reading
1000.1) Other FAQs.
-Engagement Diamond FAQ, Version 2.0
Maintained by Peter Mlynek (mlynek@chem.wisc.edu), (c) 1995
Location: alt.wedding
-Frequently Asked Questions about Diamonds, Version 1.2
Maintained by Jim Kokernak (kokerj@rpi.edu), (c) 1994.
Location: alt.wedding
Maintainer Comment: I STRONGLY recommend the above FAQ. You
would be surprized what you don't know about diamonds and
how the public is being gypped. Even I in the business,
found it eye-opening.
-Rec.crafts.beads FAQ: Suppliers
Maintained by Marianne Vaughn (marianne@brahms.udel.edu)
(c) 1994.
Location: rec.crafts.beads
-Rec.crafts.beads FAQ: Glass Beadmaking
Maintained by Tashina (ghost@powergrid.electriciti.com)
(c) 1995
Location: rec.crafts.beads
1000.2) Books.
* The books I've read, I've commented on.
Art of Gem Cutting (7th ed)
Dr. H. C. Dake
Gem Guides Book Co.
Baldwin Park, Ca
(c) 1987
ISBN
96 pp.
Maintainer Comment: Good introductory book on various kinds
of gem cutting. Inexpensive.
Complete Metalsmith (Rev. Ed.)
Tim McCreight
Davis Publications
Worcester, MA
(c) 1991
ISBN 0-87192-240-1
Maintainer Comment: Invaluable reference for metalworking.
Highly recommended.
Eyewitness Handbooks: Gemstones
Cally Hall
Dorling Kindersley
New York, NY
ISBN 1-56458-499-2
160 pp.
Facet Cutters Handbook
Edward J. Soukup
Gem Guides Book Co.
Baldwin Park, Ca
(c) 1986
ISBN 9-10652-06-6
64 pp.
Maintainer Comment: Small book on facetting with a faceting
machine, includes several exotic cuts.
Gems and Jewelry (2nd Ed.)
Joel Arem
Geoscience Press, Inc.
Phoenix, Arizona
(c) 1992
ISBN 0-945005-09-1
159 pp.
Maintainer Comment: Good pocket guide on gems, but not a
field guide and almost no info on jewelry, and I wouldn't
believe anything it says about judging the value of stones.
Gemstones of the World
Walter Schumann
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
New York, NY
(c) 1977
ISBN 0-8069-3088-8
256 pp.
Maintainer Comment: A good guide to gems. For the size of
the book, it is rich in detail. Good, clear photographs.
Jewelry Concepts and Technology
Oppi Untracht
Doubleday & Company
Garden City, NY
(c) 1985
840 pp.
Maintainer Comment: Huge, expensive, and exhaustive.
Untracht tries to bring the corpus of jewelry making into
one book, and comes pretty close to succeeding. The wide
focus is on jewelry art and foreign jewelry, less on
contemporary fashion jewelry. Most of the photos are B&W.
He also attempt to include every jewelry technique,
including questionable techniques (small gripe). In
short, if you can afford this book, buy it.
Jewelry Makers Handbook
Iva L. Geisinger
Gem Guides Book Co.
Baldwin Park, Ca
(c) 1988
ISBN 0-935182-36-5
64 pp.
Maintainer Comment: An average beginners book. Covers basic
technique fairly well.
Jewelry Making and Design
Augustus F. Rose and Antonia Cirino
Dover Inc.
New York, NY
(c) 1967
ISBN 0-486-21750-7
296 pp.
Maintainer Comment: Though much of this book is out of date,
the technique demonstrated is very good and it has an
excellant section on design. Good detail. I still refer
to this book over and over again. Get this book if you
can find it.
Jewelry Making for Beginners
Edward J. Soukup
Gem Guides Book Co.
Baldwin Park, Ca
(c) 1986
ISBN 0-910652-17-1
48 pp.
Maintainer Comment: Focus of this book is on scroll wire
jewelry for the an absolute beginner who wants to start
with something easy that doesn't require a large equipment
investment.
Jewelry Making Manual
Sylvia Wicks
Quill Publishing Ltd.
London
(c) 1985
ISBN 0-9615984-2-5
Maintainer Comment: This book has the look and feel of a
coffee table book; however, on reading it has a good
pointers on technique and design. It also delves into
cloth and plastic jewelry. A good bridge book for those
making the transition from beginners technique to the
production of sellable peices. Recommended, but not for
beginners as the "beginners" section is not sufficiently
detailed for successful application.
Making Silver Jewelry
Nona Ziek
Lancer Books
New York, NY
(c) 1973
ISBN 0-76326-195-1
Maintainer Comment: A not-so-great beginner book on home made
silver jewelry.
Simon & Schuster's Guide to Rocks and Minerals
Annibale Mottana, Rodolfo Crespi, and Giuseppe Liborio
Simon & Schuster Inc.
New York, NY
(c) 1978
ISBN 0-671-24417-5
607 pp.
Maintainer Comment: I expected more out of a Simon &
Schuster's Guide. Quite a bit of industry mis-information,
and a general lack of detail. It was as if they really
didn't take the time to research their topic.
1000.3) World Wide Web sites
http://www.halcyon.com/dsp/welcome.html
SkyLight Gallery
http://www.primenet.com/~rgenis/
National Gemstone
http://www.rahul.net/infodyn/rockhounds/rockhounds.html
Rockhounds Mailing List
http://www.teleport.com/~raylc/
Associate Jewelers Incorporated
http://www.xmission.com/~gastown/goldpages/amber1.htm
Harold Goldsteins Amber page
============================================================
2000) Addresses
2000.1) Submitting an advertising
To accommodate the needs of the Internet community, this
section of the FAQ has been set aside for individuals,
companies, and organizations to announce their products and
services. However, to keep this section from becoming an
advertisment, I would ask that you use the following
template. Also, the Maintainer does not verify any of the
below listings. So, if you use the below services, buyer
beware.
2000.2) Template.
Company Name:
Address:
Phone Number:
Fax Number:
Email:
Does the Business Require a Tax Number: (yes, no)
Credit Cards:
Description of service or product:
(6 lines, 59 characters per line maximum)
(please make this section concise and informative.)
2000.3) Suppliers
Company Name: WESTERN GEM & MINERAL
Address: 27102 Fraser Hwy.
Aldergrove, BC
V4W 3P6
Canada
Phone Number: (604) 856-8170
Fax Number: (604) 856-8170
Email:
Require Tax Number: no
Credit Cards: MC, VISA, C.O.D.
Description of service or product:
Supplier of silversmithing tools, sterling plate, wire,
grain, rock cutting and polishing equipment, rough rock,
casting supplies, and gold pnas. Supplier to schools and
crafts people. Manufacturer of hand faceter and rolling
mill. Catalog available.
============================================================
9999) Contributers...
The following people have contributed by suggestions,
corrections, or by suppliments. Without their
participation, this FAQ could not be half of what it is.
emilyb@netcom.com (Emily Breed)
hsiaote@CS.UCLA.EDU (Hsiao-Te Su)
ltjones@tucana.ualr.edu (lon jones)
marianne@brahms.udel.edu (Marianne Vaughn)
neilm@halcyon.com (Neil R. Marsh)
rick@chocky.demon.co.uk (Rick Hewett)
stevep@asi.com (Steve Pendleton)